El Pontifical

What can we say about this charming hotel? In a very small village, up high, it has very few rooms – 5 or 6 I think – which are carefully looked after by a lovely South American couple. Our room was one of the larger ones, with dual-aspect windows looking down over the plain in one direction, and over the neighbours’ pretty garden, and their hens, in the other. It was comfortable, well furnished, good bedding, excellent bathroom with separate toilet. Both the bedroom and the corridor were lit artistically, which for elderly clients with failing eyesight was a little sad. The food was amazing. We had the tasting menu, included in the Half Board. No choice at all, you had what you were given. But boy, was what we were given great! Cured meat selection. Tomato salad with anchovies. Stuffed roast mushrooms. Great big giant prawns from the barbecue. Steak with grilled tomatoes and round potatoes. Chocolate cheesecake. I think that was it. The food just kept coming, good quantities, and all freshly cooked and delicious. Approaching the village from the main road, driving across the plain, we could see ahead of us a huge rock, with a church on top. That church is 100 metres from the hotel. And you have to get right up there, through tortuous, narrow village streets. On arrival in the village, we nearly turned tail and went away, prepared to lose the money we had paid in advance, as we just couldn’t find the hotel. We parked in a small square by the town hall and police station, while one of us went to reconnoitre the streets. There was little signage to help us find it, and once the foot patrol had discovered its whereabouts, we then had the problem of getting a long car round a very tight hairpin bend on a hill between village houses. Scrapes of different colours on the houses showed that we were not the only ones forced to do a nine-point turn to get round! So, for this reason alone, we shall not return.